In the Grands Causses, sheltered at the junction of the Gorges of the Jonte and the Tarn lies the small village of Peyreleau. From the main street, a narrow road winds gently up to the hamlet of Les Rouquets from where a grassy track starts to climb through the pine woods on the lower slopes of the gorge.

As the track steepens, you need to be sure of your footing and notice that the sturdy roots of the conifers have formed natural stairs that help ease the climb. You stop to catch your breath and, looking back down into the valley you’re pleased to see that the village is already far below.

As you near the top, the path turns sharply to the left, but you can’t resist the temptation to follow the narrow track that takes you out onto a natural stone balcony.

Here your efforts are rewarded by a view that lifts you heart. Far below, the Jonte and the village of Peyreleau; to the right, the sheer walls of the gorge de la Jonte, and across the gorge, the Causse Mejean, the massive rock at Capluc and the dark folds of the gorge du Tarn disappearing into the distance.

Gorge de la Jonte

The trail through the pine forests

The going is easier now and you pick up the pace as the trail, now a soft sandy path, winds through the woods until you emerge into a wide clearing on top of the cornice. Turning left you pick up a wider cart path that trails back towards the edge of the gorge passing an enormous over-hanging rock formation – le champignon.

After following the cart path through the woodland for another half and hour or so, you pick up the faintest of trails that dives down between the densely packed trees to your right.

Narrow, stony and exhilarating, the path sweeps between rock formations tracing the line of a small valley that runs down to the Jonte, still many hundreds of feet below.

Looking around, you get the feeling you’ve been magically transported to some distant wilderness. It’s silent; there are no signs of civilisation. The world is just you and your friends and this narrow trail through the woods.

Gorge du Tarn

After three or four kilometres, you cross onto a short, steep descent and before you know it you’re back in Peyreleau where your journey began some 4 hours earlier.

It’s just been a few hours, but you feel your spirit has been lifted just that little bit. Yes, you’re back in civilisation, but you know you can always come back whenever you feel the need.